Stage 2 - removing mould lines and putting models together
Those models are suppose to fight on the table and we all know what happens to them when transporting or falling over on the table. That is why I try to pin the parts together. Tools that I use:
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the pins which will hold the parts together are done (or better cut) from paper clips:
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There should be also a picture of super glue or any metal, that glues the metal parts in few seconds
A word about mould lines... I hate them! To clean them, takes a lot of time, but I see no other way. This job takes plenty of time, but it is simple. Believe me, it is worth to clean the miniatures from them. Later they will take a lot of the miniatures' beauty away. I spent 2 evening to clean all the parts from mould lines, but this job needs to be done - even on TT miniatures! Now, when all the parts are separate and easy to reach, it is the best time to remove them. Later it will won't be easier
So lets move to some examples - this djin has be cleaned from mould lines and all the parts are together (so that I won't forget anything)
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First I try to glue the biggest parts, in this case it is the torso. You can see on the picture a small cut from pater clip (called a pin) and two holes (drilled by me) in both parts of the torso. Before you glue - try to pin the parts without glue - if it's ok - put some glue on the parts and into the pinning holes. If not then maybe the pin is to long or the holes too small?
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To be sure that you drill the holes in perfect positions on both parts, try this simple trick:
1. drill a hole in one part
2. put some paint around the hole
3. try both parts together (with your fingers, not glue)
4. remove the second part and you should see the exact place where to drill
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and there we have, a finished cleaned and pinned djin
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While removing mould lines from a 'froggy warrior' I accidentally broke the lance into two parts. It happens quite often, when the parts are small and fragile
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so what did I do - first I finished removing all the mould lines:
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and drilled holes in both parts and pinned them:
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I also had a bit of problems with glueing the small parts with the torso, but with the help from pincette it was much easier. Here are the horns that are supposed to go on the shoulder pads:
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I stick glued and pinned models together on cork. It makes further steps, like cleaning/gap filling/painting, much easier. You can easily rotate the cork and not touch the miniature. Another benefit is that when you clean the miniature (more to come), it won't get dirty or fatty from fingers.
At the end of this step we get something like this:
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